Given the intricate detail of denim fabric and its construction, the direction that which the yarns are woven not only plays a major part in how soft the denim feels but also how it impacts the wear patterns and fades that will in turn give it the look over the years of wear.

Denim is a durable, rigid, and often coarse twilled fabric, usually woven from cotton using an indigo warp and ecru (natural) weft. In a twill weave, the weft passes under one or more warps and then over two or more warps. The next weft will “step” or offset one warp, this creates the characteristic diagonal line (known as a “wale”) that identifies a twill fabric. There are three main types of twill - Right Hand Twill, Left Hand Twill and Broken Twill. Right hand twill or “Z” twist is the most common weave found in denim jeans.

In a right-hand twill, the diagonal twill line or wale goes from the upper right to the lower left on the face of the fabric. Because the direction of the weave loosens up fibres in the warp yarn you typically get a rougher, darker face to the twill and less of the filling weft yarn showing through on the face of the twill. Thus, all other things being equal, right-hand twill denim will appear darker.

So what is left-hand twill?

Left-hand twill, also known as LHT or “S” twist is the opposite of right-hand twill and was originally used by Lee as their standard fabric. The wale goes from top left to bottom right on the face of the fabric. In a left-hand twill, the warp gets tightened during the weaving process, thus the result is typically a smoother face to the fabric. Also as more of the weft (or filling yarn) is seen on the face of the fabric, the denim will often appear to be of a lighter hue than an equivalent right-hand twill.

Iron Heart produce all their core cuts - super slim, slim, straight and tapered in a 19oz left-hand twill denim, as well as a 19oz Type 3 jacket in indigo and over-dyed black.

To view our range of Left-hand twill denim, click below.

Shop All Left Hand Twill

To learn more about other aspects of denim and Iron Heart products


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